By:Lerato Dumse

Working with Inkanyiso collective and Muholi on Faces and Phases has enabled me to build friendships and my own chosen family. I met Batesta Segale in 2013 and we spent Soweto Pride together that Spring. We were not close but somehow ten years later that connection still exists. 

Due to phone issues we’ve both had limited access to communicating but use every chance we get to check on each other via Facebook. I told Batesta how much I love their country Botswana. My previous visit was a one-night stay in Gabarone to meet up with Tshepo Kgositau, a fellow Faces and Phases participant who is a trailblazer and history maker in Botswana, having successfully challenged transgender rights in the country. I needed to visit Botswana again and Batesta promised to invite me. In 2019 I had the opportunity to get a new car and I opted for an SUV because I wished to use it to explore parts of Southern Africa. Then came CoVid, lockdown restriction and a loss of income. I was forced to put my plans on hold. However, when the invite came to attend the 2023 Botswana Pride on October 7 I had to attend. 

I pleaded my case with Z Muholi and was given the greenlight to attend and report on the event. I left home just after 1am on October 7 for the 412km drive, aiming to arrive in Gabarone around 7am. Apart from driving to KZN, this was my second long distance trip and first cross border. As an artist I do love working during early mornings were its just me and the birds chirping. Driving is another story. I woke my mom up before leaving and she gave me her blessings and wished me a safe journey. I’ve had to steer clear of energy drinks after getting sick during my last road trip in early August driving from Durban. So all I had was water and my favorite home cooked meal. First stop was the petrol station to fill up, wash the windscreen and pump the tires. 

Then it was just me, the road and radio. When it was safe I “stepped on it” and would drive at 120k/h otherwise I kept to my comfortable 80 or 100k/h. Then I passed Joburg approaching North West and my easy drive got a little scary because some roads were dark and full of trees. I drove by some people walking in those dark roads and wondered if they are not ghosts. That did not help as it only made me to panic, but I had to soldier on. Just after passing Rustenburg, I stopped at a petrol station but was not comfortable enough to get out of the car because it was so dark and full of trucks. Instead, I ate my food and decided to drive until daybreak. 

This part of the journey was hard as I started to feel the fatigue. However, it was exciting watching the start of a new day. Just before reaching Zeerust there was an Engene petrol station and I parked there. The time was around 7am, I was supposed to be in Bots already. I was tired and decided to take a power nap because I needed it. Not sure how it was decided but an hour of sleep does the trick. I got back on the road and soon after I passed Zeerust and approached the boarder. I’ve traveled a lot in my 35 years of living, but I don’t have much experience traveling withing the continent and using a car. At the border I was such an amature. Worst part was when I couldn’t understand why my internet stopped working. Then it hit me that the approximately 500 meters distance between SA and Bots border means my South African simcard doesn’t work anymore. 

In my defense, the road signs at the border are not very clear and I ended up taking the wrong exit. Fortunately, people quickly redirected me and I was on my way to Gabarone. I was already late as it was approaching 10am. I needed to build my confidence driving in the streets of Botswana and adjust to their driving style. I had to rely on road signs and asking people for directions. I’m notorious for getting lost but Botswana was kind and I made it to the Pride venue before it got busy. I had checked the weather and was already anticipating hot weather but what I found was way beyond my expectations. The heat exhaustion quickly got to me, and my only defense was water. 

Batesta doesn’t have a good phone connection and I also didn’t have a local sim, so I had to rely on asking around if he has arrived. One of the marshals was kind enough to dedicate herself to helping me find Batesta. It was such a good moment connecting with Batesta and being introduced to the Botswana transgender organization. During the day with the heatwave and exhaustion I had to go take another power nap while waiting for Pride to officially begin. Batesta received me well and introduced me to fellow comrades in Botswana while I continued documenting. If I ever needed convincing, this trip was enough to make me decide that I would be happy to migrate. 

South Africa is so full of corruption and I’m not saying Botswana is perfect, but it was so refreshing being in an area that doesn’t tolerate corruption that easily. I was tasked with driving because people have lost their driver’s license due to traffic violations. I appreciate the strictness because it reminds one to be safe and follow the rules. My weekend visit ended up being a 5 day stay in Botswana. Sunday is jazz day and I got to experience pure talent. I also needed to quickly adjust to the fact that what I perceive as close locations is not the case because you end up driving 30km and the locals call it close. 

After 5 beautiful and hot days in Botswana it was time to drive back home. SA had a crisis with eggs and high petrol prices. At least I managed to fill up on Petrol, unfortunately I used my card and the conversion was not in my favor and I was even more convinced I need to move to Botswana. 

Coming from Lobatse border was such a breeze and I got a kudos from one of the border gates officials who was proud of me and my solo adventure.